萩原延壽氏の「遠い崖」を読んだのは、十年ほど前。明治維新をイギリス人の眼で記録したサトウ日記を読み解いたこの本は、非常に面白かった。その後、横浜開港資料館を訪れた折にたまたま「図説アーネスト・サトウ」という写真集を手にした。この本の「サトウの主な国内旅行」の記録に1873年と1877年の大菩薩峠を含む甲州の旅があることを見つけた。大菩薩峠は、祖父(1895-1987)が1928年に最初に山小屋を開設した山だ。サトウが明治初期にどのように大菩薩峠に登ったか、一気に関心がわいた。さっそく、資料館のサトウ日記の複製から該当する部分のコピーを手に入れ（オリジナルはLondonのPublic Record Office）翻訳しようとしたら、すでに立派な翻訳本「日本旅行記」二巻（東洋文庫）が庄田元男氏によって刊行されていた。

したがってPCに向かって原文を転記することにした。原文は流麗な筆記体で比較的読みやすい。ところどころ判読不明の単語は、XXXで表示した。二回わたってサトウが登った大菩薩峠とその周辺の日記である。

　　　　　　　横浜開港資料館　サトウ日記原文を転写（判読不明は、XXで表示）

Ernest Satow diary. 1873. April

April 11
 Good Friday. Started with the Hannen at 8:15 in a trip towards Chichibu Road by way of Shinjyuku, Nakano, Tanashi, Ogawa, Hakonegasaki & Shinmachi to Oume over the plain road to Ogawa broad and enclosed for a great part by homestead surrounded by keyaki and bamboo. Long stretches of straight road. Surface gently undulating. After Ogawa, xxxx a plain covered with gradually increasing numbers of mulberries. A range of low hills about a mile away on the right with continuous villages underneath. On the left plain but horizon intersperse by plantations.Hakonegasaki is xxxx four cross road. In the right 8cho to xxxxx. In the left down a magnificent avenue of pines 4 ri to Hachioji. Road round by Hakone to Oume said to be bad, probably better than the other xxx road from Ogawa bad for wheeled vehicles.  From xxxx to Shinmachi the road lies through a wood for some distance, chiefly xxxxxx trees. From Shinmachi to Oume  over a mulberry plain, with fine view of the hills at the foot of which lies the latter town Oume large long-town of shabby looking houses. No trade. Difficulty of obtaining quarters but got over it by exhibiting xxxxx not to go away. Perfect for refrain us - a sick in mate- as usual realism - was undefined fear of consequences of taking in foreigners without permission having been notified beforehand.  Xxx xxxx attempt at extortion. Delicacy of xxx calling "rio" a "momme". They ask six rio for the use of the upper xxxx.
  Takanawa  to  Shinjyuku        2 ri
                        Nakano           1 ri
                        Tanashi           3 ri
                        Ogawa            2 ri
                        Hakonegasaki  3 ri
                        Shinmachi       1 ri
                        Oume              1 ri

                                             13 ri
April 12
 Left Oume at 8:30, Hannen & I walking, Mrs. H in a Kago. Road ascend gently at first, always on left bunk Valley wide xxxx cultivated. Ascend to a height just after passing Mannen Bashi, over which pilgrims find their way to the top of Mitake. Watch rafts shooting past a rock in the middle of the stream. Magnificent Yamazakura far away in the midst of fields on opposite back. A little further on come to extensive peach orchards at Xxtamato all in full blossom. Coal is said to be found at a place 3 ri to the south, called
Itsukaichi Valley contracts somewhat before reaching Kotamba, a small village, with one decent inn. Contracts and winds more before Hikawa, road getting very steep.  Mitake is right ahead some time before reaching Kotamba. Fine clumps of cryptomerias in Hikawa containing a shrine. Inn opposite cross bridge over Nippara gawa, tributary of the Tamagawa. It consists of a Single tree thrown across from rock to rock, covered from rain with a roof, and planks about 4 feet long placed sideways across it xxxx roadway, with a railing about 2 feet high. Wretched teahouse in village on opposite side of bridge. A road goes from the bridge along the right bank to Xxxx a little over 3 ri, and then crosses the Sengengen toge to Kedjuke, 4 ri, near Urayama, into the Chichibu district. Five peaked rock covered with trees called Atagosan. Quantities of light purple azaleas and wild peaches. Maiden hair fern. Purple small Turks head lilies called Katakuri. Three ri to Hara over steep ascents and perpetual windings. Lofty hills. Here there a village or farm perched high up among corn fields just as in Switzerland going up to the Xxxxx. Lukewarm baths. Large inn kept by Nara xxxxx xx on both sides of road perched on  xxxxxx rock seventy feet above stream. Heated for baths. 1350 feet above sea. Arrived at 7:30. Xeas  in multitudes. To Daibosatsu toge by Kosuge 3 ri, by Taba 4 ri. Ascent 3 ri, length of pass 6 ri, from this side to Hagiwara, Enzan (both) Yawata 10 ri  from Ogochi to Kofu
 Hara to Kawano            1 ri
             Kosuge             2 ri    (inn)
         2 passes
              Xaihara           3 ri
              Sishihara         1 ri
              Xxxuhara         1 ri
              Nishihara         2 ri
              Uyenohara       1 ri

April 13
 Stopped at Hara and did nothing. Water bubbling up in tanks made for the purpose on right hand side of road, one only clean and used. Water exported to other places Benten rock and Akiha-san 3-4 cho further on. Climb to bare hill in afternoon. 3 huts, the lowest 750 feet. Road by this Xxxxx of xxxxx fearfully steep. People catch excellent trout close by xxx ought to be
boiled and cater with melted butter (clear).

April 14
 Left at 7:30 with a Kago for Mrs.H and baggage on two horses, one also for riding on (two altogether ). Road level to Kawano. Xxxx xxxx. Road up left bank by Taba to Daibosatsu toge. Leave Tamagawa and up other stream in narrow winding valley. Quantities of purple azalea and also ofyellow. At Yosawa valley divides. Takes there to left and ascend. Stern steep hills xxxx height. Katakuri lilies in large quantity  between this and Shirasawa, which we reach at 9:45. Long tendrils of wisteria used for basketwork. Leave at 10:15 ascend Tsumasaka pass 1350 feet above Hara, top at 11:10. Down to Kannondo at Nagasaku in 20 min. Coolies and horses rest xxxx. Streams here flows down to Uyenohara called Fujikawa. Xxxx it falls somewhere inxx Xxxxbara-gawa. No azaleas here. Turn up a pass to the left called Obane-toge. From top look down on Saibara, a village xxxx xxxxx??? extend for two or three ri. At 1:20 rest at side of road near the farm house whose newly thatched roof we saw from top of Obane-toge, Xxxx. Off again at 2:20. Constant ascends  and descents. Stream becomes bigger and wind between steep hill, on where the azalea reappears. A great deal of slaty xxx where disintegrates and crumbles away quantities of yamabuki, xxxx Japonica,(bright scarlet) crimson peach,pink peach, Sumonrs  and yamny akura. 
Difficulty in finding place xxxx and have tear, finally rest at farmhouse in
village 2 ri from Uyenohara. Cross stream close by and keep along right bank to Yudzurihara 1 ri from Uyenohara. Mowers magnificent. Red alluvial soil above, slaty xxxx below. Cross stream to left bank, xxxxx along itxxxxx away. Valley of Saitaragawa close completely up. Ascend plateau, instead of taking road by a stream , where here becomes very wide and cross mulberry planted corn field plain. Pointed hill with clump of trees on top stand xxxxxx at right bank of Saiharugawa, close to entrance of valley. Put up at Wakamabury in Uyenohara where we arrive at 7:30. Xxxxxx boats can be get at Yoshino for Atsugi. Large xxxx  shortess  attentive. Send for woven fabric. Man produces two pieces only. Xxxxx xxxx, one Rind wet shuts up before rain, the other opens found near Shiraxxxxx.  Trees more forward and a great deal of corn in ear. Market at Uyenohara of woven silk on the 1.6k of each month. Kikuzumi is a decent looking hotel opposite Wakamatsu.

April 15
 The silk dealer bought four pieces of Tsu xxxx varying form 2-3/4 rio to 3-1/4 and some  blue stripes, besides hiring silks; all carelessly woven. He says the xxxxx patterns are made further up the road, pxxx, about xxxxx. Left at 9:30 and reached Yoshino at 11. 8 ri X Atsugi by road, by boat from Katsuse just below. Xxxx xxxx a boat, but of the two boatmen one was laid up with a swollen foot, the other had been bidden xxx feast which was to last two days. Showers all day, with hot intersals of sunshine. Good xxxx at Yosi, Kadoya and Ohara is a shabby town. Sekino alurost palling xxxxx. Stopped at Obusa xxxxxx at Yoshino till 1:30 and left in Kagos and our foot. Zaggage carried by three men on hoihashigo, who were always behind the Kago. Top of xxxxx at 3:45, 1150 feet over Yoshino. Ascend less steep than it appeared  when I went down with Adams in January 72. Stopped some time at top. View much impeded by clouds. Cultivation in patches close to summit. Xxxxx round tops of hills on left hand side of road western face. Baru hills all about , very steep. Decent to Kobotoke, where xxxx is an inn, rather xxxx. Xxxxx through 2nd village of same names to Komagino, very paxxxxx. Xxx 250 feet above Yoshino. Xxxx figures are approximations, unconnected  for changes in height of mercury. As Keofa silk woven in neighborhood ,and a woman brought two pieces of blue stripe, which were all she could get at inch a late hour. As soon as whole pieces is woven it is taken to Hachioji for sale. At Hachioji one caught any kind of silk fabric ,which are xxxxxxx from the surrounding places. Fair yesterday. Not an inn, but only Chaya, and at first they objected xxxxxx. Other inn Yamaguchi xxxxx

1873.Oct.26
 Soyejima, Saigo and Itagaki resigned on the question of a war agst Corea, which they strongly Jescied, Goto and Ito also resigned. Okuma, okubo and Oki remained. So them were added Katsu Awa as Min. of Marine, Terashima as Min. for T.A and Ito as cllinister of xxxx. Soyejima was going to uivadelorea with 50000 troops in two armies, one on the east, the other on the west of it's northern boundary. Xxxxxx men xxxxxxx at each point and march south with the remainder. Iwakura was strongly agst. The consequence is that the idea is given up for the present, as well as that of an expedition to Formosa. Sanjo has been very ill with with Xxxxxx, and Kido with paralysis

2012年の5月末にLondonから西に列車で2時間のDevonshire、Exeterに近いOttery St Mary村にサトウのお墓を訪ねた。サトウは、外交官を引退後、1907年からこの村で治安判事を務め、1929年に亡くなるまでこの地のボーモン・ハウス（Beaumont House）で暮らした。残念ながらサトウが日本から取り寄せたというボーモン・ハウスの庭の桜の木は数年前に枯れ、現在は残っていない。サトウの眠るOttery St Mary Parish Churchは、村の中心に近い坂の上にある。

　　　　　　　　横浜開港資料館　サトウ日記原文を転写（判読不明は、XXで表示）

Ernest Satow diary 1877. April

April 17
Started from Yedo and rode on horseback to Ogawa in 3 hours. My servant Yeikichi, a shonin boy of about 19 or 20 had gone on ahead with the riogake.
Good inn at this place, called Ogawaya, right hand side, nearly at the end of the village. The keyaki are just beginning to decorated their delicate twigs with leaflets; the pale green edged with scarlet of the poetical maple. Magnificent yayezakura at the entrance to Horinouchi. Many wild cherry trees along the road, some in full blossom yet, others with brown leaves eclipsing the flowers. Double white and crimson peaches intermixing their beautiful branches. White flowers of the sumomo crowding thickly every twig to it's very end. The red boke amid it's dark green leaves. The lighter colored relation the shizome lying low down on banks. Splendid groves of Keyaki, towering above cryptomeria and bamboo, plantations of tall straight xxxed matsu. Even the stern alder is xx x  xxxx loveable by it's tender opening leaves like the wings of a moth just out of the chrysalis . Violets and potentilla cover the side of the road. Reach Dambori in 1 3/4hr. from Ogawa. The road crosses a wide plain, sometimes nothing but field, surrounded by mulberry
trees, with a small patch of xxxx smelling rape here and there, then through a
wood xxxx a row of gigantic wild cherry tree. Inn called Sakaue-Rinzo at the
entrance refuses to take me in, it is full of guests. Put up at Shimuraya, when
I stopped 4 years ago, in company with the Hannens. After some discussion and half an hour's waiting, the landlord agree to receive me. He is a newcomer. The street which forms the town has been planted with a most wonderful series of old xxxxx trunks of plum, peach, cherry, maple, awogin and a few evergreens, which were put in last year. They chiefly came from the Buddhist mountains in the neighborhood, and cost on an average about 2 ponds each, so that it must has been an expensive business for the little town only a mile in length , and no breadth of shoulder. It rained slightly just before we came in, and there was a good shower about eight in the evening, much needed by the crops.

April 18
As rain threatened I sent to buy an umbrella, which cost only 65 cents,
and in a magnificent article, the materials of which, with the exception of the
bamboo handle, have been imported. In the internal my boots were sent off with the baggage horse, and so l had to slump along in waraji to which I was totally unaccus fomed. The charge for the two of us was 30 cents and I gave 20 cents tea money. Lot off a little after eight. This is the road which I travelled in 1873 with the Hannens, and it has not much changed, except that the big yamazakura just before Futamat(a)o has been cut down, because it hindered the growth of the crops. It is strange that they should not have found this out before, for the tree had a girth, I am told of 7 feet, and was sawn into planks 1. ft 8 inch. Japanese in width. At the point of the road where I saw the yamazakura last time were the same wild  raspberry bushes. It grows everywhere. Yamabuki covers the hills. At the Okuzawa-bashi, which divides Futamat(a)o and Sawai villages, there is a road to the right by way of Hanno to Chichibu and Shinshiu. 28 cho before reaching Hikawa found a return pack-horse, and gave the man 10 sen to carry me in. Decent inn on the right hand side after crossing the bridge, charge for 2 only 15 sen. Two other inns in the village. Saw the first plants of Venesis which on xxx horse. Got my boots and clean pair of socks, and set out to walk with Tom's collecting box and my mother's trowel. Kept a sharp look out for Katakuri (Katakuri is a lily called Erythronium flora), but found none. Saw and dig up plenty of narcissus, then large quantities of the said fern, amid many others. The woman who was carrying the baggage came up and wondered. I told her about the Katakuri, and she recognized the plant, but not the name. Came to a place covered with a bulbous plant called usyoro, and dig up some tufts on hearing from an old woman that they bear a flower like the peach, tsumaranai hana de gozaimasu. Came up again with the baggage-woman and her companion, who were sitting on a bank under a grove of cryptomerias, they xxxx. xxxx presented me with half a dozen of the flowers, some with bulbs attached, which they had found close by. So we began to dig, and with great difficult got a few more bulbs. But a little further on, about a mile before reaching the inn at Hara, I spied a big bank  planted  with Bsoussonetia papyriera, on which countless fine specimens were growing. So we dig up a large number, and with very little trouble. The resemblance to the Turks cap lily seems to come on when the flower is beginning to pale. The leaf is ovate, 3 in long 1 3/4 wide. Each perfect plant has two leaves. The flower 6 long pale purple pointed petals, arranged in two sets of three, one set enclosing the other. At the base inside is a serrated mark drawn in dark purple (drawing) six stamens, 3 long, 3 short, corresponding to the inner and outer petals, large dark xxx xxx , pistil with 3 stigmas. The leaf when it grows exposed to the sun is marbled with dark blotches, but in the shade is of almost uniform pale green. There were many wild flowers growing on the banks by the road side, besides wild red camellias, bright and pale pink azaleas, yamabuki (Kerria laponica) Asemo (Andromeda Iaponica) Kome-tsutsuji, a small white flower clustering along a slender stalk, and forming a bush ( ). 
Kotozura, a village just beyond Hikawa, as one ascends the valley, is a great place for Katakuri. Violets, pale, grow everywhere in masses, here and there a dark one. My host at Hara says that a carriage road 18 feet wide, quite level, is to be made right up the valley and over the pass to Kofu, 16 ri from here. It will require some very good engineering and a vast quantity of blasting powder.

19 April
 Left at 7:30. Crossed the river at Kawano. The road by way of Taba is 1 ri longer than that by Kosuge, and not passable for horses. Half a mile from Hara is a path to the right up a valley to Mine. At the first valley is a path to the left, which goes to Itsukaichi 7 ri and Hinohara 5 ri. Large horse chestnuts in  Tamagawa valley. Also wild pear trees, and maples. Met an old woman carrying a stump on which a gooseberry brush was planted, good for Senhaku. Find a great deal of pedatum going up the stream to Yosawa. Find a
white pansy at a stream, shortly after passing Yozawa and leaving the Saibara
valley. Arrive at Kosuge in the middle of a good sized valley; Kocho about 45, FurusugeSeiichiro. Quantities of Katakura with petals turned back, white
ranunculus. Plenty of venison.  Difficulty in obtaining coolies and horses or
ballocks. Finally get two and start at 1:30 village of Hashitate, begin to ascend gradually through woods, by the newly formed road. One hour brings us to the Shiraito no taki ; pleasantly xxxxxx in a glen Shed at 4:10 ; here is to be the summit when the new road is completed; my hosts notion at Hara of carriages going over the pass was a little in advance of possibilities. Height of this spot 5418 feet approx. Trees covered with Hikage no Katsura for the last 1500 feet. Trees Nara, beech, momi, maple, asemo, hiba.  Over frozen snow. Reach ni-watashi; a sort of cave built of loose stones and trunks of trees, where the goods are exchanged between the pack-animals of the two provinces. Height of top 6222ft . A little Buddha covered with moss, and a little wooden shrine of Shinto. Descent first muddy, several feet thick of rich black soil, then granite and afterward granite sand. Get a glimpse of the plain through the mist. The hail (hio) follows us part of the way down. An.at Hagiwara at 8 p.m. and lodge at the horses of a farmer, who is  licensed to take guests, named Furuya Ihei. Eat my dinner in a row with my servant and the two coolies.

20 April
Started at 7:30, my host leading the way with the riogake an his horse.
Road continue to descend gradually for several miles. Leave Enzan, a stumpy
little hill, at the foot of which is a bathing-place, a few cho on the right.
Bright morning, nightingales and larks singing (xxxxxxxx two uguisu answering to each other) to passions frittering . Rushing Brooks on every side, flowering peaches, Kaido, pears, pyrus japonica both crimson and vermillion(shiu-zome), straight ahead lofty long range with Komagatake, Jizogatake and others. Fuji's nose peeping over range on the Xxxx. On the right a snow-patched ridge called Yumihari-toge, over this, by the Hachijiu hachi mawari and Kannonzaka passed to the famous Mitake, the view from which is so-fine, 7 ri from Hagiwara, 3 ri from Kofu, so that I might have taken it on the way. I cannot help feeling like the andante cantabile of the "Jupiter"symphony, everything is so delicious, the air so fresh and nature so lovely. Fine broad road, 12 feet wide, here and there evergreen or flowering trees planted by the authorities, with a notice board in learned language and an interline or translation for the use of the vulgar, saying that the treasure planted to protect from heat in summer, word off the cold in winter, delight the eye in spiny with flowers and with scarlet  leaves in autumn, thus preserving health and causing the weary traveler to forget the length of the road; so that from travelers down to children of the villages everyone must be careful not to break off the branches or do anything else that may injure the trees. 健康 will muhiyou(mubyou) for Kana.  Heat warmth 75° in the shade. Arrive at 12:30. Try Sadoya, a good inn in Yanagimachi sanchome, but they say that they are full, even to putting 12 persons in an 8-mat room. But Narumiya, a little further on receives me. Charming damsel named Kei from Ogawa machi, apparently in the xxxx of guests upstairs.  They said guests invite me to drink. One is Arai Tosuke, who reveals himself as having been formerly Nitta a kumigashira of Accounts under the Shogunate, he says he had met come to my house years ago with Oguri Kodguke mo suke. He is contractor for the new road over the Daibosatsu pass to Taba, for 30000 rio. He escorts me to the castle, built by Asano Danjo, from which there is a capital view of the town, and surrounding country, site of Takeda Shingen's castle to the north behind. Xxxxx to the filature established four years ago by the Kencho, upon the principle invented by Natori Masaki. Silk sells at same price as that of Tomioka, worked by water power. Joined  here by Kiyama Seiichi who was many years ago with Midford to Kiyoto, and afterwards with Stanhope on board of the "Ocean". He carries me off to Fujimura Shirow, the perfect, a pleasant stout Higo man of middle age, who gives tea. The hot water is poured out and left to cool for a while. Then to the establishment of Naito Denyomon, a public's permitted bookseller and publisher, who is also proprietor of the "Kofu daily news"' with a circulation of about 2000 annual subscription 2 yen. He is just printing a new edition of the 玉篇 and a new annotated 十八史略. He presented me with several of his own publication, one of which turns out to be the 日本史略 with xxx xxxx away the time at Tsuboya in Satsuma one rainy afternoon in February.  Introduced me to his mother's Masa? an equally enterprising lady, who is the head of the girl's school, and the friend of several learned men, amongst whom they named Yanomami Gendo, an obstinate Kokukakusha, who lives in Azabu, originally a physician of the Japanese school , and Tanaka Yoshikado, Azabu , Shinami cho No.24. They talked also of a learned antiquarian of  Koshiu, named Saegusa Shichinai, who lives at Mikage-mura, 2 ri from the town and has a fine collection of old books, and fine copies.
Important festival in the 15'th day of April in each year called Miyuki no matsuri.

Kofu is famous for Kaiki, both for linings and bedding.

I bought a piece of the former for 4.78 sen; the price asked for the latter varied from 6 yen to 7.80 for 55 long feet. Also for grapes preserved alive in sugar, under the name of tsuki no shidzuku. Likewise for uchiguri, beaten chestnuts, which are made out of the fruit steamed in fragments of itself, which being placed inside a xxxxxx as big as a penny, are beaten out flat to that size. Only to be obtained at a small dirty house 2 doors on fright before crossing the last bridge out of the town.
 The prefect sent me some bottles of wine and of brandy made in Kofu from native grapes, his messengers being Kiyama, the wine-maker and the bookseller. There arose a tremendous  quarrel between a lodger and a small official partly about Kei , and partly (though separately) about myself; the most violent and disgusting  language was used on both sides, and threats of violence made mutually. Kiyama &  Naito pressed me to another lodging, and I ay last yielded. Naito carried me off triumphantly to his editional room which he good-naturedly cleared of everything, and entertained me with tea and talk till midnight. He said that an edition of the Kai meisho, five vols. would cost a thousand yen to bring out, and that the sale would not pay; so the second part remains xxxxx. Kiyama turns out to be the good-looking boyish interpreter of old Date Jiunii, whom he had with him in 1870, now grown
into a modest and xxxxx young man of twenty six.

21 April
After breakfast Naito carried me off to the normal school, a frightful three stories building with two-storied wings, and a two-storied tower on the top. The number of invitation European buildings here is much longer in proportion to the size of the town than at any other place I know in Japan. Naito of course, besides his own shop and printing-office, has built rows of small shops; the prefect's house, the new bank, the courthouse, the town hall and Natori's filature are all in this style, besides a big school. Started a quarter before eight, with a coolie carrying my riogake much against his will; it was fine, stony and hot. At the village of Koun, the newly repaired high road cross a bridge to Isawa, a branch to the right goes to Iwasaki; cultivated for grapes, and thence joins the main road beyond Katsunuma. Between Shimo-Kuribara ( a neat town, where one might sleep, and Todoroki village the road is planted on both sides with delightful peaches, cherry trees and pines spectabilis , besides a kind of Kaido which bean an apple. Double rod peach-flown with a pink centre, and stamens shooting out to different length like the rays of a star;  brilliant double crimson; double white in cluster like  guelder roses; many gempei double peaches; a cherry tree with bunches of pinkish flowers as big as a baby's head line the xxxxx road the whole way along. At Todoroki a colossal stone glans penis on a neat turfed mound, surrounded by round stones, and the inscription 道祖神. A village official invited me in to drink  tea and chat. He praised the Kenrei for his energy concerning schools, road & bridges, several filatures on the Natori principle are about to be established in the province, the funds being provided by societies of three or four native capitalists each. Katsunuma is a long street  stretching away up-hill to the mouth of the valley this xxxx one reaches the Sasago-pass. Lunched at a house close to the posting station; the master of the house  an owner of vineyard, and much interested in the manufacture of wine. Oto Matsugoro, who has been 8 years in. California, Yedo address Sendagaya itchomei No1. is the teacher of wine-making in Koshiu.  Chief players of the vine-grower are daigiri, an insect which destroys the tree by cutting thru the trunk, and young caterpillars. Xxxgated by layer which begin to bear in the third year and produce fully after the 10th. Best grapes from tree 40 or 50 years old. Best quality never sent to Yedo or Yokohama. I must pay another visit at the end of September or beginning of October, when the grapes are at their best, and he will show me every thing there is to be seen. Bought tsuki-no-shidzuku at 12 cents a box, and some live tanishi. Start again at 1:15 up a fine wide valley, with mountains gently declining to their bases, and crowned with xxx that have hitherto escaped the woodcutter's axe. Range after range seems to rise ahead. Chiefly granite. At first quantities of yamabuki, then gigantic dark pink azaleas relieve the  dry aspect of the mountain sides. Violets pale and dark, the latter slightly scented. A white flower resembling the coltsfoot. Tsuruga(Hatsuse) has nothing which looks like a decent inn. Descend and cross the stream by a bridge, and turn southeastwards towards Komakai, passing the wide valley at the head of which rises up Tenmokuzan.
Komakai has one or two decent-looking inns. Now begins the real ascent, a little stony, a few zigzags at the end, and then a fine view looking east of Kaya covered hills dotted over e.xxxxx and other deciduous trees. As the road
descends reappear the azaleas, then the wild peach, and finally the Yamabuki.
Vegetation appears far behind that on west  of the pass in point of development.
I had a letter of introduction from the police of Kofu to the landlord of Miyoshi, who received me very easily; the house is solid and clean, the last on the left hand side coming from Kofu. Necessity of reporting arrival and departure of foreigners makes innkeepers shy of taking them in. Kuronota is situated in the midst of the hills.

22 April
Started about half-past six. A brilliant morning. The road descends constantly. Beautiful and picturesque valley of Hatsukari; surrounded by mountains of the most diversified forms. Glimpse of Fuji caught as one crosses the bridge to enter the village of Shimo-hatsukari. Houses in these villages mostly with a high upper story and attic for rearing silkworms. The sound of the loom is heard from every dwelling. Odzuki is a wretched village, where the road to Fuji and Yamura branches off. At this latter village is woven chiefly large pattern Kaiki for bedding. Shortly after leaving Odzuki, and looking back one begins to see Fuji appearing from behind the hills, and he is not totally eclipsed until one reaches the grove in which is a shrine to the gods of Mishima. During the whole of this long stretch of road there is no shed where one can sit down to enjoy the view, and the first tea-stall one comes to is just at the aforesaid grove, whence nothing can be seen. The manner in which the mountains are grouped west of Odzuki is magnificent. One might find a night's lodging at Komahashi. The road all the way is being widened and improved, hills avoided and angles cut off, but the material of which they are made is simply the earth at hand, and in rainy weather the mud must be very deep. Between Komahashi and Saruhashi the Wata river, which runs down a beautiful valley from a village called Seto, joins the Katsura river. Arrive Saruhashi at 10, having walked twelve miles in about 3 1/2 hours. Rest at Daikokuya, left hand side close to the bridge. Five Plornera japonica and Maples grow on the edge of the rocks which form the buttresses of the bridge on either side of the gulf. Start again at 11:40. Torizawa full of large houses of silk growers. Steep climb over and round the hills to a point above Inume, and then descends to that little town. The new road passes underneath Zato-korobashi. I climbed up and condoled with the old keeper of the first teahouse. The view from this spot, reaching along the valley of the Katsura-gawa, and including Uyenohara with it's outlying villages is very beautiful and varied. Range after range rise up, each bluer than the first, till they are lost in the hazy horizon. Zato was called by a companion below, and following the voice, walked over the precipice and was killed. Heaven knows how many centuries ago. At Okunogi buy 55 Kujira feet (15) of waste silk cloth for 2
1/2 yen. Down a steep hill to Tsurugawa, and up again to Uyenohara, where we are about 4:30. Wakamatsuya excuses itself from admitting me, but I find comfortable quarters at Kikuzumi opposite. The people of the house are very goodnatured, which is perhaps     one to their possessing a baby of whom they are very fond. From behind my screens I hear the mother and sisters playing with the little one in the bath, and lavishing all kind of caresses upon it. A hiki of Uyeda silk for 5.30 yen. Kai's silk was 10 yen the xxxx last year, now it is about 5.33 yen. I am becoming fearfully sunburnt and dry.

23 April
Started at 6:30. A cloudless sky again. They have  no wells at Uyenohara, and are obliged to bring the water they use from a distance in wooden pipes. It is consequently foul and contains decaying vegetable matter. Buttercups and a sort of blue speedwell. Between Sekino and Yoshino a large stream enters on the right bank ; according to the Fujimi 13 shiu map it flows down from a place called Okumakino. In a gulf just before Yoshino plenty of Adiantum monochlamys . Yoshino has half a dozen houses of ill-fame with the nature of their trade trust prominently before the traveller's eye by large board inscribed Kashi-zashiki tosei 貸座敷渡世, and one or two decent inns. Curious pink flower on bank descending to the ferry, with four sepals, four bag-shaped petals with a drop of clear liquid in bottom of  the bag, 4 stamens and 1pistil ; heart-shaped slightly serrated Leaves. Xxxx quantities of this from the halfway house on the Kobotoke pass up to the top. Xxxxxx xxxxx trunk of a Keya tree (planera japonica) lying by 2nd ferry, chased all over with tracks of an insect which has burrowed under it's bark. Kadoya , a capital inn at Yose, where we arrive at 8:30. Rest half an hour. At Ohara ate some buckwheat verxxxxxx. A thick lump is taken, and rolled in suxxxx rollings into the shape of a big pancake, which is folded up and cut into strings with a heavy knife shaped like a cleaver. It is then boiled in water for from five to ten minutes, and served up with warm-watered soy, onions cut up fine, and a mixture of cayenne pepper, dried lemon peel and laver. Saw some unmistakeable
blackberry flowers in the bit going from Ohara to the dip which intervenes
before the ascent begins, and very large white anemone Nikkogisis at the dip
itself. A little further xxx, on a bank to the right quantities of the larger
Adiantum xxxx. Reached summit a little after 11. Defended and lunched at Hanaya in Komagino. A magnificent Yamazakura a short way down. Hot walk Hachioji to the corner house at the end of the town, called Kadoya Kinosuke ; where the people press me to pass the night, but I do not like their too familiar ways. So walk on to Hino, and after a little resistance on the part of the landlord was accepted as a guest by the feurales of the Kashiwaya. I learn that they have previously receive foreigners, who may have left a bad impression behind them on one member of the family. Excellent Hachioji biscuits.

24 April
Left Hino at 6:30, the landlord still looking very glum. Walked to Fuchiu in 1.40 min. Shrine to O Kunitz tama. At ten reach large teahouse called Hashimoto at the end of Futashiku; a tamago-toji and as much rice as one earn eat for 5 sen. A coach passes down by the  xxxxxx of 2 Japanese ponies. Reach Shinjiku at 1:55 and lunch at a teahouse in the 2nd ward called Yorozuya. Get home about four o'clock. Have thus walked ninety miles in four days without fatigue or blisters.

28 April
Went to see the pottery and pass brought by xxxx Dresser for the Japanese Government and presented in xxxxx  xxx South Kensington Museum. There were various articles from Minton, Doulton and other manufactures, many of gaudy and vulgar. Young Tritz Owen showed me round the place. Afterward
called on Katsu Awa, who was less inclined to take politics than on a previous
occasion. He says that the generals dislike being under Yamagata's orders, that Kawamura and Oyama hate him. Supposes Saigo to have retreated to Hiuga with 20000 men.
Attaches no importance to the presevies of two sons of Shimadzu Saburo at Kioto.
The present state of things is that Saigo has effected as masterly retreat into Hiuga, carrying off with him all his wounded.
Dclepam that Russia has declared war against Turkey arrived here on the 26th. I hope we shall hold aloof, because that will be such a disappointment to all our enemies, who wish we worried put our foot in it.